Museo de Larco and Pre-Columbian culture

Larco museum
Entrance to the Larco Museum

I spent a large part of the morning trying to catch up a bit more on the blog. Having decided not to continue doing it when I arrived in Peru, I changed my mind but, by then, had about 10 days worth of writing and photo editing to complete so it has been a bit of a mission.

The agenda for the day was a visit to Museo de Larco, which houses a collection of pre-Columbian artefacts discovered by the archaeologist, Larco, who established, during his studies, that there were 7 epochs of civilisation prior to the arrival of the Spanish Conquistadores. These began somewhere in the region of 8,000 B.C.

Garden
A variety of cacti at the Larco Musuem

I caught a bus from the centre of Miraflores, near Kennedy Park, having asked one of the transport police which one to catch, as it is very confusing. I was dropped off on the corner of Bolivar Avenue and had to walk some way down the road to the Museum. This is set in a beautiful garden with a mass of colourful flowers, as well as a variety of cacti.

The Museum itself is extremely informative and well presented. I spent nearly 3 hours there admiring the various pots and textiles of the different epochs and it gave me a very good overview of the peoples that inhabited Peru prior to the Conquistadores’ arrival. It also houses a collection of Erotica, which contains some very sexually explicit artefacts!

I was absolutely astounded at the extent of items that they have in storage. Unlike most museums, these are on display in glass fronted shelves and, I believe, amount to about 50,000 exhibits. I can’t imagine how they chose what to put on permanent display.

Some very heavy jewellery worn by pre-Columbian ladies
Some very heavy jewellery worn by pre-Columbian ladies
Elaborate silver nose rings
Elaborate silver nose rings
Some of the items in storage at the Larco Museum
Some of the items in storage at the Larco Museum

On completion of my visit and having decided the cafe was far too expensive for lunch (and was full of an American tour group anyway), I went in search of a bus back to Miraflores.

Silver funereal wear
Silver funereal wear

I had seen some passing along the road when I had been walking to the Museum. Eventually one came along and I checked with the conductor that it was going to Miraflores. Belatedly, having tracked the route on Google maps on my phone, I realised that there must be another Miraflores. By this time, I was in a less than salubrious neighbourhood (naturally!). I got off and started walking past many, many automative shops and repair yards, and on in to welding land. For some reason, particular types of trade are always situated in one specific area. It was not a district in which I wished to linger.

At last, I reached the main road that led all the way down to the Miraflores I knew. I continued to walk as the buses looked full and I didn’t want to risk catching the wrong one again. So I walked, and I walked, and I walked. It didn’t look that far on the map but it must have taken me a good 1 1/2 hours to get back by which time my legs and feet were aching and I had had more than enough of the traffic. All thoughts of finding a nice cafe were gone so, instead, I went to the supermarket, bought a beer and some bread and returned to my patio where I could put my feet up. I can’t say it was in peace, as I could still hear all the car horns and alarms, which are incessant, but, at least, I was on my own and there were no traffic fumes.