For the next two days I had difficulty walking. I had not factored in the effect 1,700 steps would have on my calf muscles, having focused my concern on the state of my lungs during the hike. It was agony every time I rose from the lounger. I ventured out for lunch and succumbed to a European style cafe with salads and green juice. I needed my veggies! In the evening I tried a middle range warung. This one had checked tablecloths, an atmosphere reminiscent of a Greek taverna and was more to my liking. Unfortunately, the food was mediocre and my meat more than a little chewy. The satay sauce bore no resemblance to that of the previous evening but I suspect it was more typical of the Balinese style than the one adapted for Western tastes. The prices for the meals in the warungs ranged from $3 – $6 NZ with some charging tax and service. There was no obvious reason for which ones would do this or why.
On my last day in Candidasa, the weather changed. There was a feeling of impending rain, the sky remained overcast the entire day and it was cool with a brisk sea breeze. I rose at 5am to accompany Komang to the local market she visited every day to buy supplies for the family. On the back of her scooter, it felt cold, and the temperature didn’t impress Komang! The market wasn’t big and several stalls were closed because of Independence Day. There were vendors selling fruit and vegetables, fish and an abundance of the flowers and containers used for offerings. I followed Komang around and at one stall tried various Balinese rice cakes which were served on a banana leaf and topped with shredded coconut and palm sugar. That was my first breakfast of the morning!
On our way home it was getting light and at one point we had a beautiful view of Mt Agung silhouetted beyond the rice paddies. I had a second breakfast and spent the rest of the day lounging and reading. I also joined Komang in her kitchen whilst she cooked corn fritters (bedalung) and had lunch with her family – a delicious tempeh, fried bean sprouts, rice, prawns and the corn fritters, all cooked with copious amounts of garlic but, thankfully, not too much chilli! As I told her, it was the best warung I had been to. I didn’t need dinner that night.