More Moche ruins and a night bus

Having woken at 5.30am I thought I wouldn’t go back to sleep but I must have dozed off because the next time I woke it was nearly 8.30am! It is most unusual for me to do that. I got up and had breakfast, chatted to one or two people and then got slowly packed up. For some reason, they didn’t hassle me to leave the room by 10am like they had done with a number of other guests.

I left my bags downstairs and headed into town where I visited the Casa Urquiaga, which is part of the blue Bank building in the plaza. It didn’t take very long as there wasn’t much in it but it was interesting nevertheless. I just love the old Colonial buildings.

Afterwards, I wandered down to the Avenida Los Incas to catch a ‘collectivo’ to the Huacas of the Sun and the Moon. I don’t think I could have managed to get a more decrepit van if I had tried. I ended up sitting on the ledge behind the front passenger. Their seat was tipped back and the cushion part of my ‘seat’ kept moving. I was also right next to the sliding door, which didn’t shut completely, and which the conductor appeared to be holding closed for most of the trip. There were a number of missing parts and none of the doors opened or closed properly. Needless to say, it was jam packed full, so wasn’t the most comfortable of journeys, although I was able to move to a proper seat once one lady got off.

Huaca del Sol on the left and Trujillo in the distance
Huaca del Sol on the left and Trujillo in the distance
Part of the Temple of the Moon (Huaca de la Luna)
Part of the Temple of the Moon (Huaca de la Luna)

We drove quite a way out of Trujillo and eventually arrived at Moches. The driver delivered me to the ticket office (I was the only person in the van by this stage as the conductor had also disappeared) and I bought my ticket and then had to walk all the way back to the temples in the heat and wind, which was driving the sand across the road.

I was told I had to rush and join a tour that had already started but, as the tour was in Spanish, I didn’t bother (although, strictly speaking, you are not supposed to be there without a guide.) I listened in to part of the tour and then wandered around the Temple of the Moon in my own time. There is a huge amount of renovation going on, although the site itself is not very big. The pyramids were built by the Moches, once again, the same community that belonged to the Lord of Sipan in Chiclayo.

I didn’t bother to walk the distance to the Temple of the Sun as I had had enough by that time so waited for a collectivo to return to town. Thankfully, this one was in a slightly better condition!

Part of a freize at Huaca de la Luna near Trujillo
Part of a freize at Huaca de la Luna near Trujillo

By now, I was starving so made my way to the plaza and La Llave cafe, where I had the set lunch. This was ok but not as good value as I had had in the restaurant of the last two days. The cafe itself was decorated with displays of some very old keys.

Once I had finished eating, I had a short wander round town and then decided to try the Museo Cafe, which I had read about, for coffee. I was very glad I did as the decor was most interesting, it being a cross between a Gentlemens’ Club and a pub. There were lots of photographs on the walls and all the furniture was very old, including the well worn leather bench seat that I parked myself on. Whilst I was there it started to rain so I didn’t rush my coffee and sat there for quite some while. I’m glad I did as, when I went to pay, I realised it was the most expensive coffee I have had in a long while but at least it was good and not made with evaporated milk!

Cafe Museo in Trujillo
Cafe Museo in Trujillo

I made my way back to the hostel where the Frenchman I had spoken to at breakfast was sitting in the common seating area. I attempted to read but he kept interrupting and I was grateful when one of his friends turned up and took his attention away. He was also going on the bus to Huaraz tonight, although with a different company.

Once he had gone, I was able to read, have some wine and then a shower and rearrange my baggage. I was just talking to the lady who had checked me in when another girl arrived and it turned out I had met her in the hostel in Quito, which is quite a coincidence, so had a chat to her as well.

The hostel lady called me a taxi at about 9pm and I arrived at the Terminal Terrestre in plenty of time for the 10.30pm Movil tours bus. I was very thankful to be leaving the hostel as I wasn’t very impressed with it. My room appeared to have been constructed in a corner of the landing. It was a most bizarre arrangement and the room was extremely stuffy as there was no real air coming in.

The bus station is very new and modern and was relatively empty. I had to check in my back pack and was then able to sit in the VIP lounge where I read whilst I was waiting. The bus was extremely comfortable with reclining seats and blankets. We were even given a roll and biscuit. I managed to sleep on and off throughout the night (once the film had finished playing above my head) and was, in fact, asleep when we arrived in Huaraz.

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